A Heritage Walk Inside BMC Headquarters in Mumbai

On an exceptionally pleasant winter day in Mumbai, we go on a walking tour of the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation(BMC) building at the Fort area in Mumbai. It was designed by Frederick William Stevens and is built in Venetian Gothic and Indo-Saracenic styles. The building stands bang opposite the UNESCO World Heritage site of Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus(previously known as Victoria Terminus), an operational railway station in Mumbai.

The front yard of the BMC building has a viewing deck where general public are permitted to visit and take photos of the exterior. However, entry inside the building has restrictions. It is accessible only by signing up for the “Urbs Prima Tour” through Khaki Tours, a Mumbai based organisation who conducts many such niche walking tours. We have done the same.

A little bit of history of BMC

Mumbai was a collection of 7 islands—Colaba, Little Colaba, Mazgaon, Worli, Mahim, Parel and Bombay. Under the British control, these islands were joined together or ‘reclaimed’ (from the sea!). Basically, wetlands, that is the Arabian Sea here, was filled in to join the islands and form one big city. As the city expanded such reclamations continued happening and the current city of Mumbai constitutes of 23 such erstwhile islands (example- Salsette, Trombay etc).

The area of Mumbai where the buildings of BMC and CSTM currently stand is called ‘Fort’ for a reason. There used to be a fort during the early British times. Everything outside of the fort was considered outside the city limits of the then Bombay. A huge open space going down all the way to the sea was maintained just outside the fort. This was called the Esplanade. It was deliberately kept clean of habitation and vegetation so that the British soldiers can keep a keen watch.

There was a requirement to keep the fort city of Bombay clean. An admin panel to oversee cleanliness was established. The seeds of BMC were planted from here. As Bombay grew in importance, particularly after becoming a hub of cotton trade, the importance of this civic body also increased. Eventually as the British gained supreme power in India, they broke the fort walls in Bombay. Construction of private and public buildings were allowed in the Esplanade area. The building of BMC and even the CST station are in this Esplanade area.

Back at BMC viewing deck

Our guide narrates some fun facts: the CST structure has more than 2000 birds and animals’ statues native to Bombay; moreover, carving these were a part of a college project at JJ School of Art. We are introduced to the statue of Pherozeshah Mehta on a horse, a sculpture that was cast in the UK and delivered here. Pherozeshah is known as the father of BMC and was one of the founding members of the Indian National Congress.

Next the attention is drawn towards the statue of a woman with a ship in her hand adorning the BMC structure. “She is an embodiment of Bombay, the ‘Urbs Prima in the Indis’ which means the First city in India”. This very walk with Khaki Tours is apparently named after her. We are explained about the Coat of Arms of BMC, the old and the new ones.

Inside the BMC headquarters

Finally after showing our Adhaar card we enter inside the building. We are dumbfounded! We certainly did not expect the interiors of BMC to be like the palaces in Madrid. A grand central marble staircase flanks the entrance. On two sides of it are “lion-esque” figures. On craning our necks, we see the ornate work of the dome. Arched balconies on the 1^st floor overlook the staircase. The floor on which the staircase originates is graced with Victorian tiling from Staffordshire.

Even though the architect was European, the labourers and masons who toiled to build this structure were very much Indians. The Indian influence is noticed in the pointy arches, jaali(lattice) windows and several such small details.

Meow meow

As all this is happening, an extremely big distraction comes and looms at our feet. “Meow meow meow.” An orange cat is snuggling at our feet. Being cat (and dog) lovers, we feel a warm rush crisscrossing our minds and at this moment we don’t know if the cat is purring or if it is us.

A few minutes into the tour we realise that cats are a constant companion here. They are super duper friendly and boy how they keep asking for snuggles! They almost stand like the dogs do and take your hand and ask you to pet them. The constant meowing echoes through this heritage building and that is some sound effect. Fair warning to cat lovers, you must put in a lot of effort to keep your focus. Also, people medically allergic to cats should think twice before going.

The courtyard

There is a breezy courtyard in the centre of the building. Here the guide explains the odd existence of an elevator and how it worked in those ‘powerless’ era. As we move around the building a policeman constantly follows us. It is a high security area, and we literally feel that throughout the experience. We are not allowed to loiter or spend too much time in any part. No amount of pleading will get you a “yes”. Sometimes that is a good thing given the rise of insensitive Instagrammers who block the view for everyone else for a shameful duration so that they can take photos of themselves.

The upper floors of BMC

Climbing a wooden, cantilever staircase we reach the first floor and walk into the Council Hall – hands down the most impressive room of the building. Its walls are decorated with portraits of important Indians like Acharya Atre, a Marathi editor who was a key member of Samyukta Maharashtra Samiti(SMS). The SMS is an organisation whose perseverance forced the then government to carve out the state of Maharashtra and include Bombay as a part of Maharashtra and not as a Union Territory or a part of Gujarat.

Artists have carved indigenous people of India on its walls. We learn the balcony of this room used to be the place for “media” and “important people.” The room was once ravaged by fire. It was restored by the efforts of conservation architect Vikas Dilawari.

We tour some rooms and learn about their architecture, history, and quirks. Then we go the 1^st floor (or was it 2^nd floor?) patio of the BMC building. The CST structure and the busy crossing thrumming with traffic is visible from here. Crowds from the viewing deck give us curiosity-and-jealousy struck looks. For a short moment we feel very nice but soon the guide presents a very grisly factoid from the past. This involves death, cannons, and the Sepoy Mutiny.

Anyways, we carry on, clicking at every corner. The view of CST and the crossing through the stained glass windows of the building drives us crazy. Around 2010, the full BMC building underwent a round of restoration by another leading conservation architect Abha Narain Lambah.

Climbing very narrow and steep staircases, we finally reach the “dome” of the building, only to learn it is a false dome and the way to the “real” dome is out of bounds for common (wo)man. However, the false dome is no less beautiful. We roam around in the balcony surrounding the dome and look at the staircases and the ground floor through it. Mesmerizing!

And of course the cats of BMC are yelling at the top of their lungs. Meows barrel through the staircase, hit the dome, and cast echoes. It is impossible to say where they are coming from! On such a meowy note, our walk ends.

Details:

• Price – INR 350 + tax per head.
  
• Duration – Around 1.5 hours.
  
• Timing – 3PM and 4.30PM on weekends(mostly).
  
• Location – BMC headquarters, Fort, Mumbai.
  
• How to Book – Khaki Tours conduct this in collaboration with the BMC. As of now they are the only company conducting this walk. They call the walk “Urbs Prima.” Announcement about the schedule of group walks is usually posted on their website and Instagram page. You can also find it on Book My Show.
  
• Requirements – You must show “Aadhar Card”, in fact when I showed my PAN Card the official insisted I show the Aadhar. Foreigners must show a passport. Everyone should have handy their COVID vaccination certificates. Good walking shoes will be helpful. Also keep in mind you must climb some narrow and steep staircases. People who have claustrophobia and acrophobia should take some mental preparation before going.

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