Kalpeni, Lakshadweep- A Treasure Island

With a mild thrust, I leap two metres forward and throw myself horizontally over the salt water. When the initial haze of bubbles subsides, I find a patchwork of colours woven on the sculpted humps protruding from the ocean floor. Thousands of years-old fauna revels underwater. Purple hued corals branch in a variety of shapes, so close that I could touch them; but I know better—the sight of the corals is to be enjoyed from a distance, even a slight touch can disintegrate them. I am 155 nautical miles west of Kochi, snorkelling in the turquoise blue lagoon of the uninhabited Pitti islet, a part of Kalpeni atoll in the Lakshadweep archipelago.

In the Arabian Sea, Lakshadweep is a group of 36 islands with only 10 of them being inhabited. Populated by 12 atolls, 3 reefs, and some spectacular lagoons, a treasure trove of marine life hovers in its waters. The history of the island is shrouded in legends, but what we know is that under the influence of Arabian tradesmen, the inhabitants embraced Islam in the 7^th century. In the 11^th century, the control of the islands went to the Cholas and the Kingdom of Cannanore from the Malabar Coast. Eventually it changed hands many times before becoming a Union Territory of India.

In the forest of corals thrives a smorgasbord of colours, shapes and patterns. While I bob in the warm cradle of the gentle waves, shy residents of the underwater coral forest, come out one by one. Among the shoots of agropora corals, butterfly fish twirl to a rhythm of their own. A clown fish skitters by. Weightless I float, steering myself by my hands, while Irfan, my guide, shows me the best corals that colonize the reef here.

Once snorkelling is done, on the narrowest end of this elongated islet, four of us wait for the last speedboat back to Kalpeni. On the coral strewn beach, I photograph a silent old inhabitant— a shell of a dead tortoise.

The 8.9 acres of Pitti is entirely canopied by coconut groves. Propelled by curiosity, I walk along the width of Pitti, across its thinnest part. Through a tangle of shrubs, I reach its other end. Unreal shades of blue caress its coast. I wonder if the palette of blue in the colour-wheel had originated here! In the faraway horizon, wild waves of deep ocean are crashing against the reef. With salt in my hair, I realize Pitti fits in perfectly with the textbook definition of a deserted island.

My isolation is cut short by the arrival of the boat. On the journey I observe that low tide has set in. Gradually the water is receding, lengthening the sandbar of Pitti. During this time the lagoon changes colours like a chameleon— topaz smudges into cyan before morphing into aqua when I finally reach Kalpeni.

Soon after lunch, an entourage of ten local youths in blue t-shirts and colourful polka dotted lungis encircle a chair. They hum something in Jazeeri—the local language that has no script of its own. On the white sand beach, thumping their feet to the lilting melody of the folk song, they raise clouds of coral dust. A clacking sparked by the clash among the wooden swords and shields in their hands complements the melody of their song.

They are dancers performing Parachakali, a folk dance enacted only by men mimicking a dual combat in the battlefield. It is an integral part of celebrations in local weddings, Independence Days and Republic Days across all islands of Lakshadweep (except Minicoy). In Kerala, this dance form is recognized as a Martial Art and known as Parijamutto — yet another symbol of Lakshadweep’s close cultural ties with the Malabar coast. Parachakali makes fighting seem a beautiful affair.

When the dance concludes, I get in a car. Under the shamiana of rustling palm leaves, the vehicle trudges along. Hugged on one side by the turquoise lagoon and on the other side by the deep blue sea, the width of Kalpeni keeps tapering. The car stops among coconut groves in front of a double storey non-descript building— Desiccated Coconut Powder Manufacturing Unit and Coconut Oil Extraction Unit.

In this tiny little island, the last thing I am expecting are narkel nadus— fudge balls made of freshly grated coconut and sugar (or jaggery)— a staple on guest’s food platters in all Bengali homes after the immersion of the Durga idol. At the entry, locals sell these to the tourists. Inside the building, a strong coconut smell looms in the air. The coconut oil extraction machine is switched on to present a demo. Every part of the coconut plant—the only industrial crop here— is used to make something.

The juxtaposition of a hosiery factory, the only other industrial unit in this coral island surprises me. Overlooked by the ocean, this unit produces 40 thousand vests annually. Yarn, the raw material of this factory, arrives to Kalpeni by ship from the mainland. Yarn is woven into T-shirts and dyed before hitting the counters. I leave the factory-cum-retail outlet with bags drooping from my shoulders.

Three minutes ahead, the turquoise and navy-blue shades hemming the two sides of the road converge at the Tip beach—the northernmost part of Kalpeni. Beyond the tetrapods, the low tide exposes the coral reef connecting Kalpeni with its satellite counterpart, Cheriam. It used to be a part of Kalpeni before being separated by a storm in 1847. The lullaby sung in chorus by the sea and the wind makes me drowsy. My time on the island has come to an end. The seclusion of Pitti, the strangeness of Cheriam and the placid nature of Kalpeni are etched in my mind forever.

NOTE: I have travelled to Lakshadweep in 2019 on cruise ship Samudram. This article was originally written by me for an Indian travel outlet. The piece was later killed (ouch! unfair but freelance life..).

Hey readers, do you want to know more about Lakshadweep and this island? Comment below and let me know.

Are you a local from Kalpeni? Feel free to post your opinions below.

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