A man with a stubble, in a golf cap, equipped with a knife, carves a massive chunk of pork leg attached to a rotisserie. His hold on the tool is firm but never forceful. Effortlessly, he cuts thin slices of meat and hands one to each of us. No cutlery is involved in this hamon de Ibero fiesta. I am at the ham-cutting exhibit of Cinco Jotas at El Corte Ingles, Madrid. Decoding the Pata Negra One bite into the tender meat and I see my companions fawn with adoration. Impressed by the cured ham, they ask for more, and finally end up buying many packs—something to munch back at…