Stone buildings hug the quiet, narrow, cobbled-stoned network of alleys. Here, ‘modern’ seems to be a foreign concept. A soothing melody from the speaker, carelessly kept on the pavement, reminds me of the current century. A few more minutes of walking and I arrive at my stop. Through an arched doorway, I enter one of the buildings. Immediately, a small set of steep staircases takes me deeper inside. Now I am in a high domed hall, beneath a skylight complemented by a frugal chandelier — in the first section of Hamam Muzeri or Turkish Hamam Museum of Gaziantep. Gaziantep turns out to be that quintessential Anatolian city which ticks all…