Walking through Worli fishing village in Mumbai

On a Sunday morning, we are in Worli, a neighbourhood in Mumbai, for a guided walk through Worli Koliwada. The Kolis are the aboriginal inhabitants of Mumbai. Traditionally, they have been associated with catching fish from the sea and selling them. Koliwada is the place or neighbourhood where the Kolis live in a tight knit community and conduct their business.

History of Mumbai and Koliwadas

Mumbai used to be an archipelago of 7 islands— Colaba, Little Colaba, Bombay, Mazgaon, Parel, Mahim and Worli. Mangroves and marshes made up their ecology. The Kolis have lived on these individual islands since time immemorial. The islands were ruled by several Indian dynasties before they came to be controlled by the Portuguese.

Following a royal marriage between English King Charles II and Portuguese princess Catherine of Braganza, the archipelago was transferred to the British as ‘dowry’. The king leased these islands to the English East Indian Company(EIC) and that is when Bombay started growing. The EIC joined the seven islands by ‘filling’ the sea. The rapid development pushed the Koli communities towards the seaside edges of the city. Worli Koliwada is one of the oldest surviving Koliwadas in modern Mumbai.

The Worli Koliwada walk

We try to find our way to Golfadevi Temple, the starting point of the walk. To our shock the temple does not appear in Google Maps! We call the guide and ask the locals. After walking through a narrow street, we reach the premise of the temple, quite big not to be on the map. It is said that the settlement was built around this temple. Back in the days fishermen used to ask at this temple “if it is the correct time to venture into the sea” and the almighty used to give a yes or no answer.

As we start the walk, we see the lane getting narrower. Keeping with standard Mumbai practice, even this noodle thin road is dug up at various points. The gentle waves of the ocean lap below which is visible from the lane. We realise we are on a hillock. Eventually the sea-link comes to view.

A few minutes later we see the already crammed neighbourhood has become even more crammed. The houses are almost brushing against each other. These lanes end in super-tiny “chowks” with lane diversions and community spaces. We cross many such spaces with temples, mosques and chapels — the Kolis follow diverse religions.

We cross a huge open playground overlooking the ocean. Playful puppies follow us. Navigating our way through the alleys, we next reach a Koli crematorium and learn about their death-rituals. As we move towards the peninsula called “Worli Tip”(a legit place according to Google Map), the scenery enhances.

As expected from a peninsula, we are now surrounded by the sea on three sides. Kids play myriad sports on the gentle slope that goes down to the ocean. The view of the Sea Link bridge is phenomenal from here. At the tip of the peninsula there are flagpoles, church and a very weird temple. Our guide tells us that women are not allowed inside the temple. There is a Koli legend that says if women go inside the temple they will be possessed by some evil spirit.

Near the temple some wooden boats are stacked. I see a few lucky mangroves. They have somehow managed the flora decimation that the city saw since the British stepped here. Beyond the temple the fishermen are at work. They have small makeshift shacks where they bring their catches and sort. And of course, how can a Koliwada not have cats?

Fluffy cats roam around here with their full family. There are loads of kittens and you will hear continuous meowing. They feed on waste fish that is strewn across the shore. They are friendly and ask for snuggles! At the jetty here, we see many boats bob in the waters of Mahim Bay. Seagulls are flying around. The Sun is hidden somewhere beyond the skyscrapers of Mahim and Bandra that dot the skyline beyond the bay.

Here a man decked in very colourful attire catches our attention. He introduces himself as Chintamani Shivadikar. He is a 62 year old local of Worli Koliwada who is currently into writing and singing Marathi songs that reverberate around Koli life. He performs some of the fun chartbusters for us. His song “papletwali” is so catchy that it has become one of our favorites! In this song a Koli fisherman is trying to woo a Koli fisherwoman who sells paplet(pomfret) by saying he will deck the woman in gold jewellery if she agrees to marry him. In this song Chintamani has cleverly played around the stereotype associated with Koli community—Kolis love gold.

chintamani papletwali song in worli koliwada

After the impromptu performance, we turn around and this time we take a uphill slope that leads to the Worli Fort. It was built by the British to defend against the Portuguese who were parked in the Bandra Fort just across the bay. The view of Mumbai from the highest point of the fort is a very apt representation of the city.

The gigantic skyscrapers representing the “new Mumbai” cast shadows on the old settlements, the original Mumbai. The economic inequality cannot be more visually evident. However, if you face towards the Sea Link then the view is spectacular with the blue sky, glittering water and children playing football in the grassy slopes and fields of the peninsula.

It is now time to hit the fish market. As we walk downhill the road becomes populated with residences and myriad shops. Taking some turns here and there we reach the fish market. Here, Koli women are selling a variety of freshly caught fish. Some from our group buy pomfrets and crabs. On this deliciously fishy note our walk comes to an end!

Details:

Price– INR 1000 + tax per head.
Duration– 2.5 hours.
Timing– Usually conducted in the morning at around 8 AM.
Location– Golfadevi Temple, Worli
How to book– This group walk is conducted by No Footprints. They announce their group walk schedules on their Instagram about a week in advance. Booking details are announced on their page itself.
Requirements– Walking shoes.

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