Experiencing Art Deco near Oval Maidan, Mumbai

On a cloudy Saturday evening, 16 people gather around a house, just to crane their necks up and check out fine architectural details. Some point their fingers to the rounded edges while others stress on the “waves” patterns on the balcony grills. Here, braving the possibility of a heavy Mumbai-monsoon downpour, are 16 architecture and history enthusiasts standing on Maharshi Karve Road along Oval Maidan in Mumbai. This precinct is a part of UNESCO protected “The Victorian and Art-Deco Ensemble of Mumbai”.

I am a part of this group and we are here with Khaki Tours for an Art Deco guided walk.

The history of Bombay

Bombay was an archipelago of seven islands—Colaba, Little Colaba, Bombay, Parel, Mazgaon, Worli and Mahim. These islands were separated by creeks and marshes. The Portuguese had control over these islands for approximately 125 years. They gave these islands as dowry to the English when Prince Catherine of Braganza got married to King Charles II of Britain in 1662.

There was a literal Fort in Bombay island from where the British used to administer everything. However, soon they started the reclamation project. Hills were broken to fill the creeks and the seven islands were subsequently joined. In 1920s the Backbay Reclamation gave us the Marine Drive. On this stretch of “new land”, residential and commercial buildings came up. These structures followed the Art Deco style of architecture — a style that was starkly different from the prevalent style of the times.

What is Art Deco?

Art Deco is a form of visual arts that developed in Paris just after World War I. “Art Deco” takes its name from an exhibition of the same name that was held in Paris in 1925. This visual art manifested most prominently through architecture. However, it also left its mark in designs of furniture, automobiles, jewelry and many more disconnected genres of utilities.

How Art Deco landed in India and US

In 1906, an earthquake in San Francisco wrecked the whole city. The architects realized they needed to build better to withstand the seismic pressures. From this background, RCC(Reinforced cement concrete) became the material of choice. Concrete made it possible to execute the designs that are so characteristic of Art-Deco.

During the 1920s and 30s, many Indian youths were going abroad to study. They observed what was happening across the Western world and brought these ideas home. Reinforced Cement Concrete(RCC) had already caught on in the market by then. Houses were now being built using cement and steel frameworks instead of stone and wood. In this background, Art Deco landed in India.

Miami used to be the city with the largest number of Art Deco buildings, but due to redevelopment, those old buildings were torn down. Now, Mumbai is the city with the largest number of Art-Deco buildings in the world.

The walk commences

One by one, we pass all the buildings on this precinct. Moonlight, Sunshine, Palm Court, Swastik Court, Rajjab Mahal and so on. We notice the rounded edges and the interesting fonts. It is said that the rounded edges were made so that automobiles could easily turn on the roads. The houses are similar yet different.

I wish we could access the interiors of these houses as well; however, that is not allowed as these houses are residential in nature.

We observe the frozen fountain patterns, sunburst motifs and notice how the buildings took inspirations from maritime elements. We learn that Art-Deco has given us the terrazzo flooring — a flooring style where chips of myriad expensive materials are poured on a cement binder. It is done in-situ. Since Art Deco used to be associated with luxury, the use of exotic materials is rampant in these houses.

The guide then introduces us with the concept of “chajja”. So chajjas are basically sunshades that protect the windows and doors of houses. In Indian Art Deco, architects incorporated the chajjas. However, chajjas have always been common in India in my lifetime. My parents’ home has chajjas. Every single house in my neighbourhood has them. I think I have taken chajjas for granted throughout my life. After all, it protects us from direct sunlight and rain. Why would someone build a house without that! I had no idea they were not that common abroad.

Two names that come up in regards to this walk is Claude Batley and Gajanan Baburao Mhatre. The former was the dean of Sir JJ School of Arts and architect GB Mhatre worked under him. Later, Mhatre worked for various architectural firms as full timer and freelancer. He has designed most of the Art-Deco buildings along Marine Drive and Oval stretch.

After frolicking in Oval Maidan and hearing the cool tales about the house with the oldest telephone in India, we move on to the commercial stretch with Art Deco buildings. The most noteworthy of these is the Eros Cinemas. I am amazed to see the ziggurat style stepped temple pyramid sitting on the head of the Eros cinemas! This style is one of the characteristic styles of Art Deco buildings. The most famous building flaunting this style is the Chrysler Building in New York.

Jazz Street

Once upon a time, there used to be a healthy Jazz music scene in Bombay. V.N Road, the road on which iconic food institutions like Pizza by the Bay and Rustom’s Icecream stands, used to be Jazz Street. Here bands, specifically Black bands, used to perform live music just by the restaurants.

While walking on the happening Jazz Street of erstwhile Bombay we discuss the Ambassador Hotel and its rotating restaurant. We pass by the popular restaurant Gaylord and the Lord Brabourne Stadium owned by the Cricket Club of India(CCI) and finally our walk ends at Pizza by the Bay.

The Khaki expert shares an extremely interesting anecdote about the nomenclature of the stadium and the origins of CCI. Also, I never thought much about Pizza by the Bay, so I am quite taken aback to know it has quite a bit history (and you can read that on their website). As usual, I gain a ton of knowledge by going on this walk. I have a few people in my circle who are like “so you pay money to walk?” Honestly, I feel pity for them. It is not just a walk. It is an enriching experience that would last a lifetime.

Details:

Price – INR 599 per head
Duration – 1.5 hours
Timing – Select weekends as announced in their website and Instagram.
How to book – Through Khaki Tours website or Instagram page.

More repository on Art Deco

The best repository on Mumbai Art Deco is here . Please go through this extensive library if you want to know more about Art Deco. They also have a page on Instagram. I also found this Instagram page on Calcutta Art Deco .