A Heritage Walk at Haffkine Institute, Mumbai

I walk on the erstwhile Queen’s Way (Dr.Babasaheb Ambedkar Road now) to reach the gates of Haffkine Institute in Mumbai’s Parel on a rainy morning. The security person signals me to enter as the MTDC (Maharashtra Tourism Development Corporation) guide waves at me. In the peeling ceiling of the building’s lobby its age is somewhat palpable. Today the door to the museum opens exclusively for the six of us. “Welcome to the Haffkine heritage walk,” the guide greets.

In 1896, bubonic plague epidemic broke out in Bombay. Ships arriving at Mazgaon brought the plague from Hong Kong. In the wake of the plague, Russian-French bacteriologist Dr. Waldemar Haffkine was summoned by the-then governor of Bombay to develop a plague vaccine.

The Sassoon family— a rich Baghdadi-Jew business family— primarily funded the research. Haffkine was given a feeble research space at Grant Medical College. In 1899, the current building of Haffkine Institute was demarcated as Plague Research Laboratory where Haffkine continued his experiments.

The many uses of the building that is Haffkine Institute

Mumbai used to be an archipelago of seven islands—Bombay, Colaba, Little Colaba, Worli, Mahim, Mazgaon and Parel. These islands were separated from each other by swamps and creeks. The archipelago was under the control of the Portuguese, however, in 1662 as Catherine of Braganza married King Charles II of Britain, the seven islands were given as dowry to the English.

In 1673, on the island of Parel, the Jesuits had established a chapel— the current site of Haffkine Institute. According to some, Parel derives its name from the temple of Parli Vaijnath Mahadev, a form of the Hindu deity Lord Shiva. The ancient temple used to be in the location of the Haffkine Institute. It is not certain if the temple was deliberately destroyed for the chapel or it was already in ruins.

William Hornby, the governor of Bombay who is remembered for launching the Hornby-Vellard (causeway blocking Worli creek) project, moved to this building from Fort area in the 1700s. The chapel was converted into the governor’s house and was named Sans Pareil. It was a seat of luxury during this time with a Durbar Hall, crystals and chandeliers, and gala parties.

When the pollution from the cotton mills of Parel reached this hub of rich people they moved again. By that time reclamation was actively happening. The last forests of Bombay at Malabar Hill were chopped off. The new governor’s house was constructed in this neighbourhood of Malabar Hills—it still stands today and you can tour it as well.

The building was then passed on to the Bombay Presidency Recorders. In 1899, this property was used as the Plague Research Laboratory by Haffkine. Scientific research work has been going on in this building since then. It was renamed “Bombay Bacteriology Laboratory” and finally “Haffkine Institute” in 1925.

Inside the museum

From the lobby of the institute, we are whisked into an air-conditioned room. Here the guide starts the tour. After orienting us with the history of Bombay and the role of Dr.Haffkine we are shown the first display in the room—a pavilion with information on cloning. The guide goes on to talk about Dolly, the first cloned sheep.

We then move on to discuss the long history of the building. Helpful posters and photographs of the building in its previous avatars hang on the walls. Then the guide narrates how Haffkine had developed the cholera vaccine to control the outbreak in Calcutta. The bust of various other important people from the microbiology world is put on display here.

We see some microscopes that were used during the development of the plague vaccine. We go through the various laboratory equipment and arrive at a place that has various types of dead bugs, insects and snakes preserved in jars. At Haffkine Institute, anti-venoms for snake bites are researched and developed. Currently, venom of only four species of snakes is used to develop anti-venoms—Indian cobra, Russel’s viper, Common krait and Saw-scaled viper.

In a spacious loft upstairs, there are models of various viruses like HIV, Swine flu and so on. A gigantic installation of DNA hangs from the ceiling. Interesting anecdotes about Haffkine are displayed here. The most fascinating factoid is that Dr.Haffkine had infected himself with the plague bacteria and tested his own vaccine on himself!

The garden

Our guide informs us that Haffkine used to maintain a large herb garden around the institute. As the city expanded, it took down the green patches. Only remnants of that garden exist now. We stroll outside the building to explore the surrounding green area. The guide points to several plants and trees and mentions to us their medicinal values.

She also shows us the part of the building where several venomous snakes are kept and researched on. After this we go outside the premises of the Institute to visit an incredible relic found here.

The area around

The Parel Relief is a 3 metres high monolith of white granite etched with seven forms of Hindu deity Lord Shiva from the 5^th-6^th century AD. It is also called the Saptamurti. Apart from the seven Shivas, there are also etchings of musicians at the base of this stone. It was discovered in 1931 when a road was being dug from Parel to Sewri(Shivdi). Since then, it has been housed in a tiny room beside the Baradevi Temple here.

A 5-minutes’ walk on the road takes us to this quiet alley on a gentle slope. Here, in an unimaginably humble enclosure of a room, is this sculpture. There is a signpost from ASI signaling its protected status. The collapsible grill doors remain locked throughout the year, except during the Navratri.

Just beside Baradevi temple is Chandika Devi Temple. We do not go inside as the door is locked. Later I read about some interesting edict stones here, so I plan to revisit soon.

Here, our walk culminates! In a way this is my first heritage walk in Parel and I am glad to have explored so much.

Details:

Price – INR 200 per adult (Indian); INR 300 per adult(foreigner)
Duration – 1 hour
Timing – Saturday and Sunday (11.30AM and 12.45AM)
Location – Haffkine Institute, Parel, Mumbai
How to book – Through Book My Show

A heritage walk in haffkine institute mumbai

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