Elephanta Caves Ferry : Voyager In The Arabian Sea
When I relocated from Kolkata to Mumbai, I brought with me luggage weighing 49.9kg. I remember the sigh of relief that me, my husband and the lady at the ticketing counter at the airport released. The joy that we didn’t cross the 50kg prepaid threshold. Yet when we decided to visit the Elephanta caves using the Elephanta caves ferry service, I had no ‘proper clothing’ with me to suit the early March Mumbai weather for an outdoor excursion which might involve a bit of hiking. I frantically searched for something and the best outfit I found fit for the occasion was my track pants and gym wear. Ofcourse the running shoes accompanied them.
My second Mumbai local train ride came to an end at around 11.30 AM in the morning of that day at Chattrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST). We took a cab from the station to reach the iconic Gateway of India.
Elephanta Island is located on the Arabian Sea off the coast of Mumbai. Ferries leave from the Gateway of India to the island on a regular basis. The first ferry from Mumbai coast to Elephanta Island leaves at 9 AM and the last one leaves at 3 PM. The departure time of the first ferry the other way round is 12 PM and the last ferry is at 5.30 PM.
The entrance to the Gateway of India is well guarded. Everyone who intends to visit the seafront needs to queue up. They are allowed in only after a thorough security check. Just by the side of the entrance is the ticket counter. Tickets for ferries leaving for Elephanta Island, Alibaug and some other places can be purchased from here.
Our tickets cost us INR 180 each. It was written on the ticket “Do not travel on upper deck; do not pay extra charge”. Unfortunately, we saw this later. We boarded the boat from the docks of the Gateway of India. The first thing we noticed when we were boarding the launch was that some co-travellers were paying a man and straightaway going to the upper deck. The man let us climb up the stairs when we paid him INR 10 for each of us.
Now seated on the upper deck I observed my co-passengers. Sitting just opposite to us were a group of Caucasians; behind them a large group of Bengalis shouting and yelling like typical tourists. Everyone was trying to get a seat under the shade of the make-shift canopy. And then there was that one couple – sitting in the open air portion of the upper deck under the blazing sun wrapped up in each other’s arms, in search of a few precious moments of privacy.
The launch chugged on and the shore shrunk farther and farther away from us. From the Arabian Sea the monumental beauty of the Gateway of India increased exponentially. The architecture of the Taj Hotel struck the eye even more.
How odd that it felt so soothing in the company of a small set of complete strangers right in the middle of a sea!
The journey was not a short one. We don’t exactly remember how long it took but it was definitely more than an hour. Elements of the sea kept us from checking the time. When we were a considerable distance away from the coast a flight of sea gulls surrounded our boat.
The birds gave us company the entire time until we reached the island. We watched our winged companions chase each other — the vast expanse of the open sea did not scare them; if anything it made them free. If there exists something called “next life” (which I strongly don’t believe in) I would love to be born a bird. Not an ostrich ofcourse – something that can fly.
The sprawling Bhabha Atomic Research Centre and its complicated network of building were visible far away in the horizon.
Finally we saw our boat pacing towards the direction of a green hill – The Elephanta Island. The Elephanta Island is host to a series of caves. The island owes its popularity to these caverns, the insides of which boast of rock cut sculptures. Hindu deities and characters from the epic Mahabharata and Ramayana can be seen intricately carved out of the basalt walls. The influence of Buddhism is also present in abundance. The artists and masterminds of this historical delight are not known. Several theories and controversies regarding the origin of the caves float on the internet.
The greenery of the island is worthy of praise. Everything around Mumbai turns brown in the dry season so the abundance of green caught us by surprise.
Our vessel moored and we boarded off the boat. The events of the rest of the day will be fodder for my next blog post.
I have been to the mountains a hundred times but my stint with the open sea has always been quite limited. Now that I am living in a beach town (technically, at least), all that is going to change. I am making sure I thoroughly enjoy each bit of my new lessons of living by the sea. May my voyage of self discoveries never end!
P.S : I went for this daytrip again in early June and the journey to the island wasn’t pleasant at all. Even in the middle of the sea there was no breeze and not a single seagull!
Do you plan to visit the Elephanta Islands soon? Do you have some questions regarding the trip? Go ahead comment below and let’s get talking! Have you already been here? Share your experience with us by commenting!
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Tania Banerjee
Tania is a freelance writer based in India who tinkers with words here and there but mostly focused on travel, food, arts and crafts. She writes for several Indian dailies and magazines.
69 Comments
Jyotirmoy Sarkar
Lovely captures and it was really very nice to read your experience.
Tania Mukherjee
Thank you very much! 🙂
Sagar
Visited today it was simply amazing to watch the seagulls. The journey on the sea was amazing and mesmerizing
Raghav
Wonderful post and very descriptive. Mumbai has so much culture and places to see that often people get there not know what all is there, mostly overshadowed by the glitz and the glamour, also a part of this world class city. Although I am yet to visit the Elephanta, I am aware that it is one of those few places where the locals and tourists both go on a daily basis. The boat ride in the Arabian Sea must have been refreshing. Enjoy your time in the city.
Tania Mukherjee
You are absolutely right. Both locals and tourists travel side by side in these boats, and it’s such a pleasurable experience! Hope you visit Mumbai someday!
Chris
The Gateway of India has always inspired my imagination in several ways, most notably as a child it made me think of the exotic (when travel seemed a distant dream) and of the ocean, or more aptly, the ocean going British Empire.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, and such a shame it wasn’t as pleasant the next time
Tania Mukherjee
I am so happy travel is no more a distant dream to you! 🙂
Suzanne
I totally understand your anxiety about traveling with heavy luggage in India. Although I didn’t make it to Mumbai, your pics of the Gate of India are certainly wistful. Maybe I’ll get there someday!
Tania Mukherjee
Oh sure you will!
kidsandcompass
I would love to visit Mumbai one day; it sounds like such a bustling city. And beautiful too, from your photos, especially the Gateway and the Taj Hotel. I also love the close up of the gull that you got. Look forward to hearing more about Elephanta Island!
Tania Mukherjee
Yes Mumbai is incredibly bustling and it never lets you get bored. Beaches, caves, tigers in reserve forest, island, food, forts..there is too much to do and see in the city!
Mrs. Millennial
Looks like you really had a nice experience. I wonder what that’s become the definitive pose for that building, so funny, haha. Thanks for sharing.
usathroughoureyes
Nice post and yes may your journeys of discovery never end.
Tania Mukherjee
Thank you so much! 🙂
usathroughoureyes
You are welcome.
wanderingmed
Such a fun article. I spent time in Mum so myself but never managed to get to Elephanta island. Your article makes me want to return and visit. Love the photographs, especially of the birds!
Tania Mukherjee
If you are ever back in Mumbai, keep a day for Elephanta in your itinerary! 🙂
The Full-Time Tourist
I have yet to go to India, but Elephanta Island sounds like a fantastic day trip from Mumbai! I really appreciated you mentioning the sign forewarning not to go on the upper deck or pay an extra fee. I also loved the photos you included of the ferry pulling away from the dock in front of the Taj hotel! India is truly a beautiful country & I hope to visit soon!! Definitely will be coming back to this post & your upcoming one to help inform my future travels! Thank you for sharing!!
Tania Mukherjee
Thank you so much for reading my post. Paying for the upper deck is very usual stuff there! Lol no one seems to care if its legal or not!
Jean
Oh looks like a fun adventure. I love that you included a few fail photos! We all have those. Hopefully you get the right outfit and to spend more time exploring your new life by the sea.
Tania Mukherjee
Thanks, I wanted to show the world the number of photo-fails we struggle through before achieving that one good instagrammable shot! 🙂
Tiasa Tilak
Mumbai nagri is so beautiful.
Tania Mukherjee
Absolutely! Too many places to visit in the city!
Patricia Steffy (@PLSteffy)
The photos and descriptions of the Gateway of India are incredible! Being able to see it from the sea really gives you a great idea of the scope of the place. I love the idea of the caverns on Elephanta — though I have mixed feelings about a longish, hot sea voyage. I think I’d brave it just to check it all out. It’s fascinating to me and a world unlike anything I’ve been to personally!
Tania Mukherjee
Thank you! On a windy day the sea voyage is pleasant if one sits under a shade all the time, but on a no-breeze day its pretty punishing!
Kavey Favelle
Haaa, this made me smile. All my Indian family seem to pack heavily, when one of my favourite cousins visited us in UK one time, I had literally never even seen such a giant suitcase as hers in my life! I have not heard before about Elephanta island. The boat trip sounds serene but am curious about what there is to see on the island?
Tania Mukherjee
I don’t generally move around with 50kg luggage but this time it was different, I was permanently shifting my base! The primary interest of the Elephanta Island are the Hindu and Buddhist caves.
rhiydwi
Oh wow I wish I’d known about Elephanta Island before my trip to Mumbai. I was situated just around the corner from CST so it would have been the perfect little trip! I love boat journeys too – the rougher, the better!
Although the rigorous security checks to get through to the Gateway of India?! Oh my, does that bring back some amusing memories! The security guard took my pen – not because it was particularly threatening, but because she just liked it. I had 3 more in my hotel room so thought I’d just let her keep it. And then the constant requests to join Indian families for photos! So funny to think about how many people now have a family picture with some random British girl in the middle.
I really enjoyed reading this – I love your writing style 🙂
Tania Mukherjee
Yikes. What a security guard! Did she explicitly requested you to gift her your pen just because she likes it?? Many Indians always go crazy when they see a foreigner around them, particularly the white skinned ones — some are in awe, while some wonder how their own life will never be like the white skinned foreigner’s life. Though some are just pervs. Staying in close vicinity around CST you could have easily managed Elephanta, may be you should return someday in future ! 🙂
rovingjo
I have never been to India but if I go I would love to do this trip like you did. I hope I am blessed with some breeze and seagulls for company as you were on that first trip. Because a long boat ride with neither sounds rather dull. Although the views might make up for it.
Tania Mukherjee
Go for the trip on a breezy day, the day I went for the second trip was pretty gloomy from the beginning.
Megan Claire (@mappingmegan)
I hand’t heard of Elephanta Island or the Gateway to India, but it sounds like a great day out – I’ll make sure I bring proper clothes with me, thanks for the tip!
Tania Mukherjee
Glad that you learnt about a new place today!
Megan Indoe
Oh my gosh I can’t get over how heavy your baggage was! Hahaa how did you carry that thing! This seems like a great day trip from Mumbai, you’ve described it really well and I love the photos! It looks like an incredibly photogenic place.
Tania Mukherjee
Lol we really sweated a lot while carrying the thing up from our house to the car and again from the car to our new home!
Iza (@IzaAbao)
It is so funny that you brought so much stuff but then not quite enough. I can relate to you very well. Haha! The ferry is nice but what if it rains?
The views look really nice and relaxing. It was interesting to know that everything turns brown in Mumbai in the dry season.
Tania Mukherjee
The weather in Mumbai is very predictable. It never rains in the city unless it’s the monsoon! Ferry service remains closed when the monsoon strikes!
Paige Wunder
This looks like quite the journey! I’ve not even heard of Elephanta Island, but it sounds like such a beautiful place. I love small birds, but seagulls are just big enough that they sorta freak me out, so I wouldn’t like the swarm on the ferry. Haha! I love the sentiment of being reborn as a bird. I’m also skeptical of such a thing, but I would love to be able to fly as well… I guess we’ll have to wait and see what happens… Looks like a stunning journey!
Tania Mukherjee
I have many friends who are equally afraid of big birdies! 😀
Cori Carl
I’m so impressed that you were just under the weight limit. I’ve certainly had to put some heavy things in my pockets and try again, lol.
I love ferry rides. An hour is just long enough to actually have a chance to relax. Sounds like a good start to a trip!
Tania Mukherjee
Lol, even my carryon was full! Yeah I am a ferry fan myself!
John
What an incredible adventure! I really want to visit Mumbai some day, it looks amazing!
Tania Mukherjee
It is! You must visit Mumbai once in your lifetime, the city will not bore you!
Sally E
I actually haven’t heard of this part of India. I loved all the photos – looks like it’s a gorgeous place that’s popular amongst both tourists and locals. LOL I can’t believe how heavy your bag was though! Must have been such a struggle to carry it.
Tania Mukherjee
Yeah it was really troublesome! 😀 No wonder you have never heard of Elephanta Islands, even many of the city dwellers of Mumbai haven’t!
Cat
What a view you’ve got of the Gateway of India from your boat ride! I can’t wait to see the beauty of Elephant Island on your next blog post!
Tania Mukherjee
Thanks!
asoulwindow
Elephanta caves were my usual haunt when I lived in Navi Mumbai for 7 years. It is so easy to reach there. I knew a secret point from wher you can get a bird’s eye of the cave from top as well as the ocean.
Tania Mukherjee
Is it the Cannon point? We, the settlers in Navi Mumbai are interested in the caves but the passion is not present in the native population. I wonder why! Do you know any shortcut to reach Elephanta without visiting the wharf of Gateway? Is there any wharf in Navi itself from which ferries leave for Elephanta?
Ami Bhat
I did this sea route via Alibaug. That is entered Mumbai through that. It was like seeing it with different eyes. Could not manage a trip to Elephanta that day but I do intend doing this with my daughter who has never seen it. Waiting for your next post.
Tania Mukherjee
I intend to visit Alibaug by boat via this wharf! You must visit the Elephants caves with your daughter once, its such an educational tour!
neha
Beautiful pictures & a captivating narration. I have not yet been able to visit Mumbai. But when I do, I will definitely go to Elephanta Islands.
Tania Mukherjee
Please don’t miss the Elephanta caves! They are not widely popular like the Marine Drive and the Gateway Of India, but they are worth nonetheless!
Sandy N Vyjay
I know Elephanta caves are really one of the heritage sites of Mumbai and India. But inspite of staying in Mumbai for a couple of years and visiting it umpteen times, I have never got around to visit Elephanta Caves. Reading your post, I am motivated to ensure to visit the place the next time I am in Mumbai.
Tania Mukherjee
I am so happy my post inspired you. Though I have already visited the caves twice, I wish to visit it the third time, this time with a guide book!
Dannielle | While I'm Young
Such a great, comprehensive guide. I’ve definitely made the mistake with not packing the right clothes!
Tania Mukherjee
Thanks. Yeah we all travellers tend to do that at some point of time!
Rupali
Thank you for visiting my blog anf thanks for sharing useful information on Elephanta caves. I would love to visit them one day.
Tania Mukherjee
Glad you found my blog informative! 🙂
Todd
Wonderful post. I haven’t seen many talk about the trip there but for me that was as much an experience as the island itself. The sights leaving and returning to Mumbai, the seagulls, and in my case the ghostly ships coming in and out of the mist. After a hectic time in the city this was a welcome bit of relaxation. Thanks for taking me back!
Tania Mukherjee
Thanks. When I started writing the article I intended to write about the Island but then I realized the journey itself deserves a post of its own!
oldpoet56
Very nice story, lots of very good information along with a lot of great pictures. I am going to reblog this article for you.
Tania Mukherjee
Thank you so much! 🙂
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Vagabond
I was there last Jan. The seagulls are my favorite!! feeling like going there again after reading this.
Tania Banerjee
I went there in last Feb! I was supposed to write another article on it but look at me, almost a year passed and I never wrote it down!
Vagabond
haha..I could understand. Even I still haven’t written it.
Tania Banerjee
We both better start working on it!
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