Fanaspada, Kharghar Waterfall – Two wildlings chasing wilderness in a city
In the monsoon of 2017, Kharghar, a locality near Mumbai in India pleased us in many ways. The Kharghar waterfall area has a role to play in it. Our first attempt of getting close to the most popular waterfall in Kharghar failed. So the second time, we attempted getting close to the second most popular waterfall in Kharghar. Husband had been here once before in 2016, so he was very confident it would be a success this time.
I know there are people who live in Kharghar yet they have no idea about the existence of this seasonal cascade. Pandavkada, the most popular one is famous owing to its location. Pandavkada waterfall is visible from the widely used broad street of Kharghar named ‘Raintree Marg’. But, its junior counterpart, Fanaspada waterfall is tucked away behind a hill in the wilderness of the valley.
On a monsoon day with occasional downpours at consistent intervals, we took the lane adjacent to the Golf Course from Raintree Marg and started walking inwards. The husband had been here before during monsoon 2016, but it was my first. I was stunned. I expected one waterfall but here, I was exposed to the view of multiple waterfalls. The sight of so many waterfalls plunging from various heights, with varying speed and whiteness of the water made my jaw drop.
We were not alone; there were many others like us. People dancing under water, families elated with joy, girls and guys giggling innocently, but the people best enjoying the seasonal delight were the kids! During monsoon, the Kharghar waterfall area is definitely the happiest place of Kharghar.
The joyous dance, fun and frolic were taxing on our energy. To re-energise our bodies there were makeshift food stalls and trucks serving local delicacies like vadapav, kandabhaji, samosa and many more. We, being fans of corn on the cob, grabbed ourselves two of those. Packed snacks like chips, cakes and biscuits were also available. Faluda, icecreams, cold drinks and lemon water stalls were present to fulfil the need of the sweet seekers.
We left the asphalt road and started walking on the pebbled track. We balanced ourselves on the little boulders, water channels and mud water. A few minutes later we reached to the shore of a seasonal river. Fanaspada waterfall was visible from this point. The river was shallow but the water current was no joke. Inspite of the water current, we saw men, women, kids and oldies having fun in the river. We were particularly surprised seeing old people in action. Very carefully we crossed the river without tipping over in the water. As usual we were more worried about our camera and phones than we were about our own well being.
The next stretch involved ascending the hill till we reach the waterfall. A pack of well bread bulls and oxen welcomed us after we crossed the river and landed on the opposite shore. Their horns were threatening. Somehow, we got past them.
Gradually, the sound of the waterfall became audible. We saw people standing on hilltops. We saw people walking along its length. We kept our focus on the waterfall. “Climbing the hill is for another day”, we thought to ourselves.
We were really close to the waterfall when we got stuck on the slope. The angry sky finally spoke. A very heavy shower started. We didn’t dare to be carefree since we were carrying our precious camera. So under the shade of a colourful umbrella we three huddled together, me, my husband and our gadget child. Beside us sat a youth smoking weed. The weed lover was talking to us in a trance.
We started walking towards the waterfall when the intensity of the shower lessened. Now that it had rained, the path became completely treacherous. A small mistake and we would fall down the ridge.
Fanaspada waterfall was in full gusto. We talked in high voices to hear each other. The sound of the waterfall was overshadowing all other sounds. The mere spray of the waterfall was enough to get us wet. Unlike Pandavkada, there is no pool at the base of this waterfall. The water falls straight down a cliff and flows forward along the slope. We enjoyed our time with Fanaspada and came back to the valley along the same trail.
On our return journey, we took a quick dip in the very shallow seasonal river. The valuables with us were kept on the shore. The current was crazy high and we had to hold on to the boulders in the river to help ourselves from getting carried away.
Standing directly below the plunge of Fanaspada was both impossible and deadly, so we fulfilled that wish of ours by standing below the umpteenth small waterfalls at the base of the hill. We were two happy wildlings of Kolkata waddling in the waters of the Sahayadris in the Western Ghats of Maharashtra!
Practical Tips for a trip to Kharghar Waterfall area
How to reach– Local trains on Harbour line from CST (ChattrapatiShivaji Terminus) railway station in Mumbai halt at Kharghar station. It takes about one hour to make this journey on train. From Kharghar railway station, bus number 54 and 55 can drop you at the Kharghar Valley Golf Course bus stop. It is opposite to the Kharghar Central Park. Alternatively, shuttle services are available a few metres away from Kharghar railway station which can drop you at Kharghar Valley Golf Course bus stop. Follow direction on my blog from Kharghar Valley Golf Course to reach the small waterfalls zone or the Fanaspada waterfall.
Alternatively if you have a car or hire a private vehicle, drive on the Raintree Marg road at Kharghar towards the golf course. Take the first diversion to the left adjacent to the golf course. Drive till the road runs bad or parking space lacks.
Cost– Free obviously!
Duration – Two Hours.
Time of the year – Monsoon is the only time to catch the waterfalls, streams and greenery. The place is pretty busy on weekends.
Have you heard about this neighbourhood of Mumbai? Did considering Kharghar your weekend getaway destination ever cross your mind? If you happen to travel to Mumbai during monsoon, will you check out this place? Comment below and let me know!
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Tania Banerjee
Tania is a freelance writer based in India who tinkers with words here and there but mostly focused on travel, food, arts and crafts. She writes for several Indian dailies and magazines.
45 Comments
Tim Harlow
That is such a beautiful place. Thanks for the great tour and story.
Tania Banerjee
Thank you for reading! 🙂
Tim Harlow
You are welcome. I enjoy your stories and adventures.
Tania Banerjee
Your encouraging words means a lot to me!
cbegg1950
Lovely photos, as always. Sitting in the stream looks fun and the waterfall was pretty huge! You do look to be enjoying yourselves!
Tania Banerjee
The stream was full of people like us! Now that monsoon is over the stream already ran dry and the hills became brown.
Savannah
So I love the picture where you are in the waterfall! So cool. But my favorite part were the cows grazing nearby. I love it.
Tania Banerjee
Thanks. Yeah the oxen looked pretty dangerous!
Tara
Oh wow, I’ve never heard of either of the waterfalls you mention, but they do seem to attract a lot of attention and festivities. It’s fun to see so many people actually getting in the water and enjoying it, despite what looks like a really strong current.
Tania Banerjee
The current was tremendously strong. It was like a wet picnic spot of the neighbourhood!
CJ Haughey
That sounds like quite a little adventure. I love how you weren’t expecting much and then found lots of waterfalls! Encountering many happy people, some bulls and an entranced weed enthusiast all adds to the experience! Glad you enjoyed it!
Tania Banerjee
Actually the weed enthusiast surprised us the most, but later we realised its probably the place where all weed lovers of the area go to! But if they get too high and lose control they will surely die in that terrain!
Vibeke Johannessen
Love this post. It is so good you try to reach it again after a failed attempt. So fascinating to see how people enjoy that waterfall. I love waterfalls and this area looks so lush. It definitely seems like an amazing place to relax and enjoy nature 🙂
Tania Banerjee
It sure was a very refreshing place!
Lisa
You had me at free! I love seeing waterfalls like this, and it’s so cool you managed to stand right beneath it. I bet it was worth getting wet for. never heard of this place, but it’s very pretty and green too!
Tania Banerjee
People living 15 minutes from this place had never heard of it, leave alone someone living so far off! Getting wet was totally worth it!
Samah
This has got to be one of the most lushest, greenest place I have ever seen. It’s more common to see pics of the Taj Mahal and the cities of India, but rarely the rural, nature-y parts of it. It looks such a serene place to relax. I too have seen elder people hiking, but this was when I was in Saudi Arabia, and I was surprised because they were with their canes and all. Anyway, this looks like a beautiful place to visit!
Tania Banerjee
Wow you have been to Saudi Arabia! Yes, unfortunately India is famous for its chaos and dirt filled streets. The Rajasthan-Delhi-Varanasi stretch which the most popular international tourist attraction area is also the most corrupted and unsafe belt. Rural India is very different. Sure people are poor but they are not touts or thieves. <3
Candy Waltrip
I love chasing waterfalls and it’s great that you actually got yourself under one 🙂 I would have been so worried crossing the river with camera equipment too! I walked in a river earlier this year and wished I had invested in a waterproof backpack.
Tania Banerjee
I have to get myself a waterproof backpack too but I don’t think any sort of backpack could prevent the camera if it drops down into the speedy water!
Rishabh & Nirali
This is a lovely travelogue! We would never be comfortable bringing our camera equipment out in such rains though!!
Tania Banerjee
Yeah, we took a big risk!
James Smith
Kharghar and the waterfalls look like a wonderful escape from Mumbai city and a complete contrast! The walk up there looks just as picturesque as strong waterfall. I have never seen a seasonal waterfall before so it would be a first for me. The greenery and waterfalls are so Instagram worthy!
Tania Banerjee
These pictures indeed do very well in Instagram! 😀 If you haven’t ever seen a seasonal waterfall before then you would be shell shocked to see it for the first time. Particularly if you witness the cycle to dry-wet-dry with your own eyes. I know this because this year I witnessed it for the first time too and I couldn’t believe where all the water suddenly came from!
Bailey Mills
I have never heard of this Mumbai neighbourhood before! This trek sounds like it is pretty treacherous, but so fulfilling! It’s always hard to find outdoor activities in monsoon season for fear of not being able to keep my belongings safe from the water. Your article really made me feel as though I was there with you, walking along the rocks and meeting the people you met. The sense of community on the trek definitely sounds like an amazing experience, I am glad you got to do it, and even happier you shared it!
Tania Banerjee
I am so happy you got to experience the trek virtually! This neighbourhood is highly underestimated by the Mumbaikars.
Indrani
Such a cute little picnic spot. Going there twice indeed indicates how thrilling it is. You seem to be having lots of fun getting wet. I am not sure if I would have got drenched like that, but surely seems fun.
Tania Banerjee
Initially, I was not sure if I should get in the water, but everyone was getting in so I got inspired!
Neha Verma
You know I had never heard of Kharghar falls. Although they are so close to Mumbai. The place looks beautiful for a trip from Mumbai, not just because of the water and the falls, but also the greenery that surround it. Looks like it’s like a real break from the city chaos.
Tania Banerjee
Yes, it is a real break from the city chaos indeed. If you live in Mumbai then you must visit here during monsoon, your eyes will enjoy a green therapy! If you are a Mumbaikar you would know about Belapur too, its equally beautiful in monsoon!
Yukti
I lived in Vashi for about one year and really shame on me, as I did not visit this picturesque Fanaspada waterfalls. Fanaspada waterfalls looks beautiful and nice picnic spot in monsoons. Also enjoying Mumabi’s delicacies like Vadapav and Kandabhaji with hot corn cob must fun under rains. The area surrounding Fanaspada waterfalls, is full of stunning greenery.
Tania Banerjee
I don’t blame you, how were you supposed to know there is this beautiful place! People who live 10 minutes away from this location have no idea about its existence, its tucked behind a patch of hills!
Kate Storm
Oh wow, that waterfall is amazing! It’s so cool how the wet season can bring on totally different sights than what you’d find in the dry season–we experienced some of that while traveling Laos. Love those photos of you guys in the river, it looks like you’re having a great time!
Tania Banerjee
If you have experienced this transition of dry-to-wet you would know that feeling!
Manjulika P. Sehgal
I had heard that Maharashtra has many treks and hikes but dint know that about this one so close to Mumbai. Kharghar waterfall and the others came as a surprise to me. It definitely must have been great fun to find so many waterfalls at different heights. The rains do sound like a spoiler but I am sure you guys had fun.
Tania Banerjee
Yes Manjulika, we had enormous fun doing this neighbourhood hike! The rain definitely troubled us, but who can stop rain in Mumbai in the monsoon season!
Kartik Kannan
This is so nice! I never knew of a waterfall so close to Bombay’s rail network. I used to live in Bandra West and Mulund West. This is reachable even on a working day, and is well within the larger city of Greater Bombay + New Bombay. Always refreshing to see such greenery in close proximity to the city
Regards
Kartik
saakshirajat
I had never heard of this waterfall before. Looks to be fun in Monsoons. Great pictures there.
Tania Banerjee
Thanks. Yes, its a great getaway spot if you happen to live in Navi Mumbai.
Sandy N Vyjay
The region of the western ghats come alive during the monsoons and are bathed in a seemingly ethereal halo. The verdant landscapes are indeed a sight for sore eyes. The Fanaspada waterfalls look spectacular. Always have a great love for waterfalls, they are somehow paradoxically so soothing.
Tania Banerjee
I love waterfalls too and strangely I too find them soothing, which is so much opposite to what they truly represent!
asoulwindow
I have lived in navi Mumbai. I have been around Pandavakada but didn’t know about fanaspada waterfall. I need to check this out. Maharashtra is my favourite destination in monsoons.
Tania Banerjee
Good to know that you have been around Pandavkada! Not many are aware of the hidden gems that they get in their own locality!
The Thrifty Campers
Ha neat photo trick, looking like the waterfall is pouring into your mouth??
Tania Banerjee
That’s right! 😀