A historical walk at Sassoon Dock of Mumbai

At 7.45 AM sharp we gather by the double gate clock tower, the entrance to Sassoon Dock. Once everyone arrives, our guide leads the way. Sassoon Dock stands in Colaba, South Bombay. It is a wet dock and currently it is used as a nerve-centre of the fishery business. This is where fishermen land their boat with catches and auctioneers conduct auctions for both international and domestic markets.

On our walk, the story starts with how the island of Bombay was given as dowry to Charles II(1660-85) when he married Catherine of Braganza in 1662. This is how Bombay came to be controlled by the East India Company. The Sassoon Dock was built in 1875 by a Jewish businessman Albert Abdullah David Sassoon. He bought land from the East India Company and developed this place into a dock foreseeing lucrative business opportunities. It was the city’s first wet dock. It handled opium and cotton trade.

From cotton trade to fishing: Stories at Sassoon Dock

During the American Civil War, cotton picking had completely stopped in the USA. To fill the gap, cotton was traded from India. There was a boom in this trade, specifically in Bombay. Sassoon Dock became ground zero from where ships sailed out with bales of cotton. In 1869, as the Suez Canal opened, the sea-route to Calcutta lost importance and Bombay as a port city gained importance.

There is still “fishy” business at the Sassoon Dock but thankfully they do not involve opium but actual fishes. Nowadays, the smell of fish hangs heavy in the air here. As we walk past, we observe everyone is in a rush. Mini trucks are lined on the two sides of the road. Carts full of ice are being loaded and unloaded. Mortal remains of fish lie splattered here and there — a reminder that 80% of all fish caught is not consumed by humans.

The guide makes the walk extremely interesting by throwing in interesting statistics. I am shocked to know that it is not West Bengal that leads the charts in inland river fish catching (Uttar Pradesh does) or per capita fish consumption (Tripura does)![this reminds me of the abject poverty that exists in Bengal – yes there are so many people who could not even afford 1 full meal a day].

A “Colaba” railway station? Really!

We reach the shores of Sassoon and see many fishermen boats docked in the ‘mini-bay’. Colourful boats, some with waving flags bob in the water. They mostly look similar. Back in the days there used to be cotton pressers all around this 3-acres land. “Cotton Green,” a station in Mumbai, derives its name from this history. Apparently “Cotton Green” had been in 3 places. The first two, particularly the second one was near Sassoon Dock. There used to be a Colaba railways station as well, and the train would terminate at Sassoon Dock!

As we talk, people load ice in the fishing boats. Tons of ice flow in and out. It turns out that the boat is usually filled with 75% ice. In another boat, men throw baskets full of fish towards men who stand on the shore and catch it. A little ahead, the lane is slimy. Where the road is uneven, blackish puddles have accumulated. “It is squid ink,” says our guide.

When Princess Dock and Victoria Dock came into being, the importance of Sassoon Dock reduced greatly. Then it became a fishing dock. The side of the Sassoon Dock where we are in right now is where the “international dealings” take place. This is basically a dock handled wholly by men. The other side is the wholesale market from where the catch goes for domestic consumption. The domestic side is handled by women, mostly from the Koli community.

A good catch

“The fishermen have hit a jackpot if they catch a jewfish.” says our guide. Apparently, these fish are used to make sutures in the medical industry, so they are very expensive. “Once a boat here caught a jewfish worth INR 5.5 crore.” I learn that 50% of the revenue generated per fishing trip (which can span from 5-10 days) goes to the boat owner, the rest is evenly distributed among the fishermen onboard. The owner takes care of the fuel and maintenance of the boat.

As we talk, we observe that the auction has started. A man calling out prices is surrounded by others. They all huddle over a pile of fish. Inside the shed the hustle and bustle has increased. Men are loading fish in crates of ice and packing it inside trucks and minivans. In this frenzy of movement, the only thing static is the heavy smell of fish in the air.

Later we go to the side of the dock where the domestic dealings are handled—a business taken care of by the Koli fisherwomen. Photography is banned here and the rule is strictly enforced. I might sound preachy, but I know this no photography rule offends many. If you are offended by this, please take a moment to step back and reflect. One must never click photos of any human being without their consent. The women working here are not comfortable with strangers clicking them and their decision should be accepted without feeling grumpy about it.

Sustainable Fishing

We see fishing nets floating here and there in the waters off Sassoon Dock. “Ghost nets are the biggest problem affecting marine life currently,” says our guide. He talks about the various nets and the various methods of fishing. He again presents some stats that show the drastic fall in pomfret landing. Unfortunately, there is also a demand for juvenile fish these days. Juvenile fish are used as fish and cattle feed. “The Kolis, the fisher community, have done sustainable fishing from ages. It is our hankering to eat out-of-season fish that is creating a demand and ruining the ocean. So, the onus lies on us,” the guide says.

“Eat what is in season, fish is the last bastion of wild food that we have. Let’s not ruin it.”

If you are interested in knowing more about what fish is in season when, I advise you to follow this page(@inseasonfish).

Details:

Price– INR 399 per person

Duration– 2-2.5 hours

Location– Sassoon Dock clock tower, Mumbai

How to book– Follow the Instagram page of No Footprint(@nfpexplore), this is where they announce upcoming walking tours. Tours are announced around a week in advance as per my observation.

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