Sira Night, Sanliurfa: A piece of Turkish culture
As soon as I step under the series of stone arches, I feel like I am riding on a musical wave. Deep voices hum on a rhythmic interval. String instruments strike the high and low notes. On both walls hang photo-frames. Illuminated by the chandelier, a mini model of the beehive houses of Harran grace the walkway. I walk into the heart of the restaurant Cevahir Han or Cevahir Inn — nerve-centre of a musical Sira Night in Sanliurfa city of south-eastern Turkey.
Sanliurfa is an ancient Mesopotamian city, one of the oldest settlement of the world, continuously inhabited by the Elbans, Akkadians, Babylonians, Hitites, Arameans, Assyrians, Persians, Macedonians, Romans, Byzantines and the Ottomans. Conveniently located on the east-west gateway, Sanliurfa was a trade hub. To cater to the rising number of merchants who frequented the route, several inns were set up. The exact antiquity of Cevahir Inn cannot be ascertained but the first mention was found in the 17th century record of the Ottoman explorer Evliya Celebi’s book of travel. The inn is also called Samsat Inn as it is located near the now non-existent Samsat gate in the northern part of the previous walled city of Sanliurfa.
Inside the high ceilinged stone hall, the melody of cumbus, oud, tanbur, qanun, violin and drums reverberate. Modern lanterns hang from palm-tree shaped structures. Some guests sit cross-legged on the carpet, sipping ayran (a yoghurt based drink like buttermilk) from the low-rise dining tables. Others are seated on the chairs. The splash of the fountain in the centre is overlooked. Everyone here is hooked to the music. On the stage, six Turkish men play local string instruments and sing folk songs— a touristic Sira Night or Sira Gecesi is on progress.
Traditional Sira Gecesi of the old days
Sanliurfa is famous for its thriving music culture, but in the past a traditional Sira night was never about the music. Once a week communities or groups of friends held an assembly in one of the group member’s house to discuss problems, brainstorm solutions, to chat and catch up. Elders passed on the traditions to the younger, taught them manners and politeness. Subjects like literature, poetry, history and philosophy were discussed. Exchange of ideas took place. The night would end with cigkofte—a kind of spicy lamb kebap. Members took turns in hosting the meetings, the Turkish word Sira Gecesi means ‘nights by turns’.
The music culture has been around in Sanliurfa since the Christian times. The religious ones crafted and sang hymns and poems, describing biblical tales. Not surprisingly, the music made a headway into the Sira nights but the nights were not solely focused on it. The skilled, wise, citizens trained the younger ones in vocal modulations and using the string instruments — baglama, oud, qanun, tanbur, cumbus, and violin. There are several music museums in Sanliurfa like the one dedicated to Ibrahim Tatlises, another to Muslum Gurses—local singers who attained nationwide popularity. The practice of Sira Gecesi is thought to have influenced and honed their skills greatly.
The Sira Night package of modern Urfa: Song, Dance, Music, Cooking and Food
A server pours ayran in my glass and politely narrates to me the limited non-lamb and non-beef part of the menu. All around me are strangers in groups, mostly European and Turkish tourists. The band on stage, decked in full-sleeve white shirts with brown trousers, puts up a well-orchestrated show. A troupe of traditionally clothed male dancers taps their feet in perfect synchronization to the beat of the song. It is hard to miss how the modern day Sira Nights of Sanliurfa in commercial places have been re-conceptualized solely for the tourists.
As the night progresses the size of the troupe increases. Dressed in a black shiny salvar and shirt they go around all the tables. Their footwear resemble the Yemeni shoes that I had seen in Gaziantep. They hold the corners of handkerchiefs in each of their hands and wave it in the air. Sometimes, kids join them, other times local guides join them. All the guests at the restaurants are free to join them.
A while later, while the performers sing and dance, a man captures the spotlight. In his hand is a huge bowl full of flour. He starts kneading the dough and finishes the entire job in a matter of minutes. Honestly, I don’t realize why this has been incorporated in the show, but for slow kneaders like me, it is encouraging. On my dining table, almost a full course meal keeps piling up. I am informed, except cigkofte and local desserts like baklavas, katmer, helva, the participants of the traditional Sira Nights never expect a full course meal.
In Sanliurfa, several big old mansions with large courtyards, both residences and inns have been transformed into restaurants. There are more than 200 such historical houses in Sanliurfa which reflect the vernacular architecture— vaulted ceilings, thick stone walls, women’s quarters, men’s quarters and courtyards(sometimes with fountains). Most of them now function as cultural centres, guest-houses and restaurants. Some of them arrange private Sira Gecesi and host Sira Gecesi open to public on specific days of the week.
It is already 9.30 PM and the music fiesta is approaching it’s climax. It has been my longest day in Turkey and I am severely sleep deprived, yet, I am so thankful that I didn’t miss Sira Gecesi. I have certainly witnessed a touristic Sira Night, but in the absence of Turkish friends, this is my only way of experiencing the culture!
To watch my Sanliurfa video on Youtube, please click here.
Have you been to Sanliurfa? Did you know about the Sira Nights culture of Sanliurfa? Are you interested in Mesopotamian Turkey? Comment below and let the conversation begin!
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Disclaimer: Tania was hosted by Turkey Tourism Board. All thoughts and opinions expressed in the post are of her own.
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Tania Banerjee
Tania is a freelance writer based in India who tinkers with words here and there but mostly focused on travel, food, arts and crafts. She writes for several Indian dailies and magazines.
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