touring the royal palace of madrid
Destinations,  Spain

Tour of the Royal Palace of Madrid: Facts and decor

The Madrid sky is grey, as if trying to complement the classical façade of the Royal Palace of Madrid (Palacio Real de Madrid). Even on this pale day, Plaza de la Armeria, the open square that adorns the entrance of the palace looks uplifting. In Western Europe’s largest palace, in front of the marble walls and pillars, standing on a dais, wearing a toga, a Romanesque statue of King Charles III of Spain welcomes me at the base of the staircase.

The tour of the Royal Palace of Madrid features at the top of every Madrid itinerary and rightly so. The palace contains 3418 rooms and covers a total area of 135,000 square metres. It is the official residence of the royal family of Spain though they actually live in a different, humbler palace. The royals visit Palacio Real de Madrid only occasionally, particularly during symbolic state affairs. Tourists are admitted inside except on days when the royals visit.

Palacio real de madrid tour
King Charles III of Spain
Plaza de armeria madrid
Plaza de la Armeria

Historical traces of the Royal Palace of Madrid

The building itself dates back to the 1730s, but its history goes way back. The Umayyad Caliphate of North Africa who captured Spain from the Visigoths constructed an alcazar (Spanish fortress of Moorish origin) in the current location of the Royal Palace of Madrid sometimes in late 800 AD. During Reconquista, the Christian forces of Castile seized the alcazar in the 11th century.

Emperor Charles V renovated the fortress in 1537 and King Philip II of Spain made Madrid his capital in 1561, thus increasing the importance of the monument. The successive royals kept on altering the alcazar until everything was destroyed in a massive fire on Christmas Eve of 1734. King Philip V commissioned a new palace to be built on the same site—the one we know today as the Royal Palace of Madrid.

Filippo Juvarra was the original architect who died unexpectedly and his place was taken by Giambattista Sacchetti. A few years later, King Charles III incorporated Italian architect Francesco Sabatini to enlarge the palace. Again, in the 19th century alterations were done to its designs to bring in French and British influence.

Palace of spanish royals
Interior patio of the Royal Palace of Madrid

Following the royal’s footsteps: Interiors of the Royal Palace of Madrid

Beneath the baroque fresco on the ceiling, I climb up the main staircase. On the landing, among the marble panels, is an unfurled flag with the Coat of Arms of Spain—a symbolical representation of the history of the country. On the first floor is a seated statue of King Charles IV of Spain wearing a Roman toga.

staircase in palacio real de madrid
Staircase of the palace
royal palace of madrid facts
Fresco in the staircase ceiling
tour of the royal palace of madrid in spain
Coat of Arms of Madrid

Upstairs in a carpet-laden hall, another fresco brings life to the ceiling. The walls are adorned with intricately painted tapestries. In the warm glow of wall lamps, candle-bulbs and chandeliers, the Roman sculptures in black stone which have been strategically placed on the wooden furniture seem to interact with each other. A portrait of the royal family here has a strange history. The painter supposedly took 20 years to finish the painting! He was always modifying it by adding finer details, changing the positions and outfits of the subjects continuously. By the time it was done, the actual people looked very different.

Royal Family portrait in royal palace of madrid
The portrait with a strange history

Cherubs crown the windows. They float under garlands of golden flowers and leaves. The theme extends to the next room as well. The palace seems to be a combination of classical and baroque art styles but classical being more dominant until this point. Beyond here, I am forbidden to use the camera.

cherub in royal palace of madrid
Cherub

One after another, I pass through some 20-30 rooms. The interconnected rooms are designated by their purposes and is planned according to the progressive levels of privacy. Some of the noteworthy rooms include the library, pharmacy, armory, the throne room, hall of columns, the Gaspirini room, royal kitchen, the gala dining room, royal chapel and the Halberdiers hall. Each of these rooms are bedecked with paintings and frescoes by famous artists like Francisco de Goya, Velazquez, Caravaggio and many more.

Western europes largest palace
Still in the classical part

I use photos and videos to capture information. In the absence of both, as I write this, I dust through the trunks of my memory. The no-camera zone of the palace is exquisite to say the least—I have never quite seen something like it before, may be except a much smaller version of it in the Santona Palace. The rooms folded in Baroque décor with paintings, motifs and sculptures speak of the lavish lifestyle of its inhabitants.

Staircase of madrid palace
A different view of the staircase

Set in red, the Throne Room has a fiery energy. Its velvet-clad walls are enhanced with large mirrors hemmed with golden metalwork. Chandeliers dazzle the room, the mirrors reflecting and amplifying the rays emitted from the fine crystals. The red carpet is occasionally tinged by gold, blue and white. Two sculpted lions guard the elaborate throne of the royals. I pull apart the red velvet drapery with yellow decorative borders and slip into the next room.

In the Gaspirini Room I am unified with the art. I feel like a part of it. If I can someday step into a painting and become an object in it, this is how I would feel. Throughout its floor, walls, and ceiling are continuous motifs and patterns that join each other and form one whole painting. The room is named after the artist Gaspirini who designed the room.

In the Gala Dining room, over its parquet flooring is a long dining table and chairs set up—one that can feed 144 people at once. A viewer standing at one end of it would see the other end of the dining table smudging with the horizon of the huge hall. However, such an arrangement only takes place during high profile lunches and dinners. As for now, the arrangement is different and the area with all the furniture is cordoned off.

I pass through many other rooms, each uniquely and decadently designed. I remember the study and the old banquet room, which was disbanded from this purpose forever by the king out of grief and remorse after the death of a queen. There is also a room with glass décor entirely manufactured from the royal glass factory of La Granja de San Ildefonso.

The edifice is also beautified by two gardens, the Campo del Moro garden and the Sabatini garden. Whatever I see on my tour is just a fragment of the entire palace. The watch ticking on my wrist reminds me of my tight schedule so I pull out my umbrella to shield against the autumnal Madrid rain and bid adieu to Palacio Real de Madrid.

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Royal Palace of Madrid ticket price: €12

Royal Palace of Madrid visiting hours:

Monday to Saturday 10 AM – 7 PM in summer and 10 AM – 6 PM in winter. Sunday 10 AM – 4 PM. Ticket office shuts one hour early.

Royal Palace of Madrid free entry: Monday to Thursday 5-7 PM in summer and 4-6 PM in winter.

Have you already been to the palace? Do you plan to visit? Did you enjoy reading about the tour of the Royal Palace of Madrid? Comment below and let me know!

Writer Tania Banerjee in Madrid
A quick snap for memory

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Disclaimer: Tania was hosted by Spain Tourism Board. All thoughts and opinions expressed in the post are of her own.

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Tania is a freelance writer based in India who tinkers with words here and there but mostly focused on travel, food, arts and crafts. She writes for several Indian dailies and magazines.

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